Around the Woods

Sharp edges for your woodturning tools:
Making the Holding Blocks

"Give yourself an edge, jig time. (4)"

A holding block begins as a 2" x 2" x 2" block of hardwood. I like maple. wood turning sharpening jig image
Mark a center line on one face and one adjacent side. wood turning sharpening jig image
Drill a hole through the face. It should be the diameter of one of your tools to sharpen. One block will be needed for each shaft diameter. I like different blocks for 45° and 30° tools. They are fast and easy to make and permanently adjusted. I like not having to twist the thumb screw 1/4" to move between 1/4" and 1/2" gouges. Here I am drilling for a 5/8" tool. wood turning sharpening jig image
About 1/2" in on the side, drill a centered, 7/32" hole through to the original hole. wood turning sharpening jig image
Using a drill press vice or a clamp arrangement hold the block in place to drill a 45° 5/16" or 3/8" hole 1/2" deep in the end of the block. i.e. 45° from the face and 135° from the edge. For a spindle gouge a block with an angle of 30° from the face and 150° from the edge is more appropriate, wood turning sharpening jig image
Cut a 7" piece of 5/16" or 3/8" dowel, whichever size you drilled the hole. wood turning sharpening jig image
And glue it in place using medium CA. Cut the stick to a projection of 5 1/4" wood turning sharpening jig image
Tap the block using a 1/4" 20 metal tap and wood turning sharpening jig image
install an eybolt. I used to put the eyebolt on the opposite side but it is easier to position a gouge in the block with the bolt on this side. For an Oland tool it does not matter because the tool does not have a groove. wood turning sharpening jig image
With blocks made and arm ready, it is time to sharpen a tool or two. wood turning sharpening jig image

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