|Continuing on I debated cutting the tenon a little smaller, but this is fairly soft wood, even for spruce and I was worried it might split away prematurely. At this stage it would likely not matter much but at the same time, this wood is easily cleared with a chisel and the risk is unnecessary.|
|Here you can see that the spur did a fair job of boring its way into the wood, but was still able to grip with its spurs and keep the burl moving. Wood turning is sometimes compromise. The bark is fairly torn away and the softness of the wood is evident.|
|A bit of work with a bench chisel and mallet smoothes the bottom for a glue block.|
|To ensure a good mating surface I used a power planer to flatten the bottom. I plan on using epoxy which is a great gap filler but the better the surface the better the join and it is certainly worth a few minutes time. note the scrap wood that is clamped to the table surface to back up the form before planing. It worked well for me.|
Various glues would work here. Yellow or white glues would give a solid bond as long as the mating surfaces are flat, and these are. CA would also work and be a good choice if even one of the surfaces were wet. These are dry and I plan later on turning through the glue line and I really do not like the smell of CA when I turn through it. I do not like to use hot glue if the piece will sit for a while and I do not know when I will next get a chance to turn so I decided on two part epoxy. It is a good gap filler, works well if the wood is damper than I think, and the bond is powerful and long lasting.
I have mounted the glue block on a small face plate and mixed the glue on an old playing card. These are great to have in the shop for mixing or spreading glue and a whole lot of other jobs.
|Before using the glue I like to dry set the block in place and get a feel for where it will go with the glue.|